Tasting Note So here is a wild card selection, an expensive Ontario red from a small estate winery, likely unknown to many. It is led by of 67% cabernet sauvignon, a very high proportion for Niagara, but again doable in the excellent 2020 vintage. The nose is very ripe and classic with blackcurrant, herbs, rosemary, spice and graphite. It is full bodied, energized yet elegant with real warmth, then firm acidity and slightly green tannin. Rather edgy and hot in the end (14.8% abv), but so very powerful. The length is excellent to outstanding. Still needs time, so consider it for the next decade. Tasted September 2025.
Backgrounder I first visited Icellars soon after it opened in 2014 and admired the gumption and ambition, yet humility, of Turkish owners Adnan and Elif Icel. But the winemaking consulting duo of Peter Gamble and Ann Sperling had their back. The 48-acre vineyard sits on the apron of the St. David’s Bench sub-appellation, well inland from Lake Ontario, and one of the hottest spots for grape growing in eastern Canada. Icellars calls itself “The House of Reds” and makes nine different red labels. This top Bordeaux blend of 67% cabernet sauvignon, 17% merlot, 8% cabernet franc and 8% malbec was aged 24 months in French oak. More recent vintages of Wiyana Wanda are also available, as well as a six-bottle vertical set. Wiyana Wanda means ”Land of Wine’’ in the ancient language of central Anatolia, Türkiye, the birthplace of the winery owners. Very sadly Adnan Icel passed away earlier this year.
