Tasting Note: The quality and consistency of Island pinot noirs I encountered during a visit in June was a revelation. This solid example is from a family property in the northern Cowichan Valley near Duncan. It has just the right weight, firmness and structure, if not really showy at the moment. But it could be down the line. The nose shows pitch perfect ripeness with almost black cherry fruit, toast, dried herbs and soft evergreen, which is a bit of a theme with Island pinots. It is light to medium bodied, well proportioned and sturdy, with classic 13.5% alcohol balance creating a pleasant warmth. The finish is a touch bitter, but again, pleasant. The length is excellent. A bit closed in for now, best 2027 to 2032.
Backgrounder: Zachary Brown and Julie Powell, from former careers in corporate Health & Safety and Human Resources, purchased an existing vineyard with mature vines northeast of Duncan in 2017 and began farming sustainably. According to Zac Brown, this 2022 Reserve was first time he used a majority (90%) of thicker skinned Alsace clones (instead of French Dijon clones) “resulting in a bit more tannin, colour and a more robust feel than typical ethereal Island pinots”. Fermentation was in concrete egg as well as insulated and uninsulated steel fermenters. It was aged in 15% new French oak, the remainder in neutral barrels.
