Tasting Note I encountered this duo at a trade tasting called SIPToronto held in April. It was a great opportunity to experience the dramatic difference between the County and Niagara terroirs — same grape, same vintage, same winemaker – but a completely different result. While Closson Chase is foremost a chardonnay and pinot noir house, I always look out for their pinot gris, which are getting better every year and very indicative of gris’ ripe stone fruit aromatic opulence. The Watson Vineyard Niagara edition better shows the grape’s generous ripe pear, lemon blossom, clover honey notes, sitting in mid-weight frame, with almost creamy “gris” texture, fine underlying acidity and modest warmth. The length is excellent. The Ridge Pinot Gris from younger vines in PEC shows some of the expected peach, floral and honeyed notes but it is young and a bit shut down. I particularly noted the leaner, firm and mineral expression — County linearity through and through. The length is very good to excellent. 

Backgrounder I have been a fan of County pinot gris for a few years, as more and more wineries are producing it: Huff Estate, Stanners Vineyard, The Grange and Closson Chase. Closson Chase’s County version is sourced 100% from younger vines of the Ridge Vineyard. It was whole cluster pressed and cool fermented in stainless steel at 14°C for 10 days. No malolactic fermentation, leading to its lean, crunchy appeal. The 13% alcohol brings equilibrium. Closson Chase has been producing the Watson Vineyard Pinot Gris since 2015, which is a far as my records go back. It is from a family vineyard founded in the 1970s near the Niagara River on clay-loam soils. Not sure when pinot gris was planted here but I have consistently placed this among the best in Ontario.