This is a fascinating, at times perplexing wine, but it racks up all kinds of complexity and flavour depth to earn this rating. The rain-plagued 2021 vintage produced paler, lighter reds in Niagara, that are maturing nicely right now, providing an early window into the not often explored world of mature Niagara cab francs. The 2021s are not green or dilute. And I really like the complex, lifted, well-meshed aromatics here, with tomato leaf, currant/raspberry fruit, all kinds of spice and forest floor. It is medium weight, slender and even with juicy acidity, and very well resolved chalky tannin. Love the texture, and the length is excellent indeed. Ready to roll and enjoy through this decade. Tasted August 2026.

Backgrounder:  Domaine Queylus is a project by a group of Quebec investors, and has been Franco-focused since the beginning. And it seems they were torn as to whether they were to be a classic Burgundy House or a Bordeaux house. So that went both ways, chardonnays and pinots sourced from Vinemount Ridge, and Bordeaux reds from Lincoln Lakeshore. The winery and hospitality centre are off the beaten path atop the Niagara Escarpment in the far reaches of the Vinemont Ridge sub-appellation near St. Ann’s. The winemaking team is comprised of Kelly Mason, head winemaker and owner of Mason Vineyards, and assistant winemaker Brooke Husband, a graduate of the Niagara College, who in 2023, she was awarded The Paul Pender Rising Star Award at the Ontario Wine Awards.  This Cabernet Franc was wild yeast fermented then aged in French oak for 16-18 months. It was released at the LCBOs Flagship Vintages stores on August 28