Tasting Note: by Janet Dorozynksi
This gamaret‑gamay blend, the winery’s sixth to date, is a standout and speaks clearly to Québec’s exceptional 2024 red‑wine vintage. Gamaret is a lesser-known Swiss variety (a vitis vinifera cross between gamay and reichensteiner) that makes up 86% of the blend, with gamay at 14%. Gamaret has become somewhat of a “thing” in Quebec, first planted by Domaine du Nival in 2013. And perhaps should be planted elsewhere in Canada. The nose and palate are immediately inviting and seductive, layered with baked cherry and blackberry fruit, and subtle smoky, herbal and white pepper notes. Medium bodied but generous, the soft tannins and touch of cranberry bitterness and vibrant acidity only add to the attractiveness and drinkability of the wine. Very good length. I can see this paired with all kinds of food, from grilled veal to roast chicken, in addition to being great on its own. Tasted July 2025.
Backgrounder:
The vineyards of Quebec’s relatively new Domaine l’Espiègle are situated on a spectacular south‑east–facing hillside between Dunham and Frelighsburg, a site previously planted to an apple orchard, and whose uprooted apple trees will heat winery buildings for years. The vineyards are surrounded by cooling forest influences while the sloping glacial soils create natural drainage that moderate vine stress and aid with uniform ripening. That said, winemaker and owner Zaché Hall values living soils above geology alone and is committed to farming without herbicides or synthetic fertilizers, relying instead on cover crops, compost and creating a thriving biodiversity. Hall brings global training and experience (France, California and Ontario) and scientific precision to the project and chose this site in Quebec’s Eastern Townships, believing the conditions here are ideal for both still and sparkling wines. In addition to wine, Hall produces tasty ciders from his family’s neighbouring orchards. This wine may only be available in mixed six packs.
