Tasting Note This pours fairly deep lemon yellow/brass. The nose is both piquant and rich, led by some brine and flint but with considerable spice, fresh cedar bough, hazelnut and honey. It sits on the palate with almost regal bearing, richly textured, broad and mouth-filling yet braced by nervy acidity, and the vaguest spritz. The length is excellent to outstanding and, like any well-written story, the limestone minerality from the shoreline vineyards circles around to punctuate the finish. Certainly enjoyable now but structured to age into the next decade. Tasted twice: November 2025 and January 2026.
Backgrounder Last House is a newcomer, with roots, founded in 2019 by retired grocery executive Andre Gagne and his wife, journalist Debra Matthews. What makes it a classic is that Gagne has hired County pioneer Geoff Heinricks as consultant. The first one-acre block of vineyard was planted in 2009 by Richard Karlo of Karlo Estates. Gagne and Matthews purchased the property in 2016, planted another 3.5 acres in 2018-19 and released their first vintage in 2019. The vineyards are planted metres from the lake in shallow clay loam over limestone bedrock (shown below). The viticulture and winemaking are minimal intervention and done by hand. Both the primary fermentation and malolactic are natural. There is limited pumping, racking or use of sulphur, and this wine was bottled without fining or filtration. There is no tasting room here, so an appointment is required to taste and purchase.
Accolades: People’s Choice and Expert’s Choice at the 2025 Judgement of Kingston
