Tasting Note.  This is a very careful, elegant and detailed chardonnay with all kinds of complexity and depth built expertly on a mere 12.1% alcohol. The colour has not evolved much at year five – still medium-pale lemon. The nose is lifted and almost ethereal with a core of yellow apple/pear fruit and cameo appearances of sourdough, hazelnut, popcorn kernel, vanillin and nutmeg. I really love the idea of the medium weight structure be such an effective bearing wall for so much flavour detail and depth. There is sour-edged yoghurt note on the finish. It hits outstanding length. Certainly, ready to drink now at five years, but will cellar well into the early to mid-2030s.

Backgrounder: Reaching for the brass ring right out of the gate, the Dobbin family purchased a neglected but prime bench site centred on a large pond, and even having some south-facing slope which is rare in Niagara and hired Canada’s power consultants Peter Gamble and Ann Sperling to replant, reconstitute and aim top shelf in terms of quality and price. The secret here is incredible attention to detail, from vineyard to labelling. This is 100% estate and from the 2.2 acre east-west planted Charlene Vineyard of older vines, however the production was very small, only two barrels.  It was wild fermented and barrel aged. Distribution Note – i4C 2026 brings its first release on July 16 at midnight, until all the offered bottles are gone at one bottle per person.  Membership sign-ups will receive two bottles in their first shipment.