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Canada is making some really great light reds, which we will prove below. Perhaps better and more true examples of classic light reds than many places on the planet. We are also very fortunately part of a global trend to lighter reds that has been building for at least the last decade or more. The world needs to lighten up!
In one way I feel sorry for the producers of big, rich, high alcohol and heavily oaked reds, wherever they are. That style rocket fuelled the wine world through the 80s, 90s and into the 2000s, in step with the rise of California-led New World reds, Australian shiraz, Argentine malbecs, and European super-Tuscan “international’ wannabes. These were the darlings of American critics like Robert Parker Jr, and The Wine Spectator (and me at the time), but they have fallen into a state of mild disdain among the next generation of young winemakers, sommeliers and pundits.
Perhaps more pointedly in Canada, where we do not do this style as well as in warmer climes. When James Laube, a prominent American critic visited what he first blithely referred to as “Okanagan Canada” in May 2026, he commented that B.C.s big reds tended to over-extraction. And in general, I agree, while I also know of individual Canadian wines in this style that are excellent, which is a post for another time.
Wine styles and preferences have been cyclical throughout history. And I predict that big “comfort” reds will come back soon, as long as they are balanced and not trying too hard. I love tasting them, and sifting through the richness for the nuances and balance and length that are inevitably found among the highest quality examples. I love their textural balm and calm. And I enjoy drinking them when conditions are conducive around the food on the table and time of year, and night. But in my advancing years I do not like to drink more than a glass or two of high alcohol wines. And the trend to lower-zero alcohol wines suggests I am not alone.
What’s not cyclical is quality. It still drives foundational pricing, and many lighter wines, led by Burgundy and pinot noirs from other regions, are now achieving very high prices, indeed. But so too are gamays from France and Canada ascending, plus grenache-based reds from Mediterranean Europe and nerellos from Mt Etna in Sicily, nebbiolos from the Langhe in Piemonte, zweigelts and blaufranckisch from central Europe and xinomavro from Greece. Beyond Europe, pais from Chile, cinsault from South Africa, grenache from Australia are getting noticed, and are better. But all of these, except top Burgundy, are still affordable
But enough context – where does Canada stand? Actually, in a very good place for this style. We are right in the latitudinal zone to capture earlier ripening, thinner skinned red grapes. Pinot Noir leads the way obviously, growing literally coast to coast, and making lighter, paler examples than most other places, especially in the East. Gamay is very close behind and rising fast in terms of quality and reputation. There are a few other traditional Germanic/Austrian zweigelts, and a whole new collection of Quebec reds made from vinifera and hybrid varieties and blends thereof.
In Canada this lighter red territory is increasingly tilting into the world of natural winemaking. This means wines made in this style are often striving to add some complexity and character (beyond red fruit and florals). Aromas and flavours can be into the realm of leesy, meaty and herbal/stemmy notes. Often in this style it can also mean a touch of volatile acidity and/or reductive sulfidic nuances, which needs to be handled carefully. Some might also seek light barrel spice, and certainly want to pack in some textural richness from wood contact. In other words, although light and pale, the wines are not simple, and flavour concentration (length of finish) can still be excellent.
One of the most common winemaking techniques used to add complexity and structure is whole cluster fermentation, which means simply tossing whole bunches of grapes, including their stems into the tank, resulting in the leaching out of stemmy/stalky green notes and more tannin. Some winemakers seeking fruit and terroir purity want nothing to do with practice, others love it. But there is always the ability to mete out the effect by only doing partial whole cluster, or shortening the period of extraction.
The reviews that follow are striving to put the emphasis lighter, juicier reds – most without significant barrel works – that can be enjoyed lightly chilled, without further bottle ageing
