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Tasting Note – Many Canadian rieslings might qualify as brassy, so I had to include one in this theme. And this sturdy, off-dry example struck me as particularly fitting, after tasting it at the WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada. Surprisingly it only scored a Bronze Medal, but when I tasted I was struck by its complexity, presence and length, extending beyond many. I wonder if the sweetness (with RS of 10gms/litre) might have cooled the judges’ ardour. But I find it a perfect situation, with so much else going on that the sweetness is a sideshow. The nose is nicely generous with youthful pear, honey, beeswax, spice and flint. It is medium bodied (12.9% abv), sturdy, intensely flavoured and quite rich with a mineral, honeyed finish. And the length is excellent to outstanding. I would bet on a long and interesting life for this wine.
Backgrounder – Orofino is a Similkameen Valley trailblazer, founded in 1989 by John and Virginia Weber, and standing forefront among the top handful of producers ever since, with dynamic, energized and well structured wines. There vineyards are on prime Cawston Bench sites, where considerable sandy loam topsoil lies two to four feet above solid river stone and gravel. They do not own the Hendsbee site but it lies next door and they farm it for Cheryl and Lee Hendsbee. The Clone 239 Riesling block was planted in 2006. After difficult years in 2023 and 2024 the 2025 season was a very good and consistent, although September heat forced quick harvest decisions to retain freshness. The grapes were gently destemmed and then pressed in an old Wilmes bladder press. It was settled in stainless steel tanks and fermented at cool temperatures. A variety of yeasts were used to help enhance complexity.


