This is the second post of the year featuring cabernet franc. There is a lot of momentum behind this grape in Canada. Most of the wines included below are from the excellent cab franc friendly 2023 vintage in Ontario and B.C., and most are longer cellar aged wines just being released. The average price is $60, about the same level as decent “right bank” Bordeaux, which they most resemble. 

Here is an in interesting idea from south of the border about marketing cabernet franc. Are we ready to discuss an American wine idea?  I am, because it is contextually important to know that cabernet franc also flourishes in the neighbouring USA northwest and northeast states.  Grapes know no borders but politics has always found a way to get in wine’s way.  Maybe because wine matters to so many people. 

In 2023, forty New York wineries launched “Cabernet Franc Forward” a marketing initiative to promote cab franc as a signature variety that could uplift the reputation of the New York wine as a whole. It is obviously a push back against the dominance of California cabernet sauvignon, and it is working. I recently talked to a co-founder of the program Max Rohn of Wolffer Estate Winery on Long Island, who reports it is having terrific success.  Is it an idea for Canada?

It deserves discussion because cabernet franc is extremely important, indeed crucial, in Canada.  Simply, it is the very best fit for our climate when medium to full bodied reds are the goal.  And for millions, reds of weight are key to their enjoyment. So, Canada needs to have a horse in this race, and cabernet franc is turning out to be the thoroughbred.  

Here’s why. It can ripen within our northern, shorter-growing season. It is reasonably winter hardy so more commercially reliable.  It can yield well to produce reasonably-priced wines, and/or high-quality wines when prompted through lower yield viticulture. And it can respond well to different terroirs to show appellation differences. 

So where to look?  It grows very, very well in Ontario, where it is the number one red variety by acres planted – growing in Niagara, Lake Erie North Shore and Prince Edward County. It is solid in the Okanagan Valley in British Columbia, particularly from central Okanagan regions like Naramata, Skaha, Okanagan Falls and of course the southern zones of Black Sage Bench and Osoyoos.  Yet I have also had very good ‘far northern’ versions from Lilloet and the Thompson River Valley, where summer temps can spike to ensure ripening in a shorter season overall.

Talking Turkey and Getting the Most Out of Cabernet Franc

Another reason to discuss cabernet franc at this time of year, is that it is a terrific choice for the traditional Thanksgiving turkey dinner. Despite being ‘poultry’ turkey is richly flavoured and fairly densely textured meat that can easily stand up to red wines with gumption. And of course, turkey is always accompanied by gravy, herb laden dressing, potatoes and salad greens, adding more weight and flavour complexity. 

Cabernet franc’s red fruit is the piquant off-set, taking on the role traditionally played by cranberry. Then the herbal/tobacco notes play nicely off the herbs in the dressing. And the textural smoothness of oak and bottle matured cab francs can coalesce nicely with gravy (and mashed potatoes).

All of which is to make the wider point that cabernet franc is primarily, by nature, a food wine rather than a sipper, and it straddles a fairly wide range of mid-weight cuisines, especially those with savoury/herbal elements. The base could be poultry, game fowl, pork, lamb, beef, pastas and risottos. Depending on the winemaking style, the tannins in cabernet franc can be astringent and bitter so sweet and spicy foods will only heighten the dryness and bitterness. So definitely lean to herbal treatments.

Given the acid and tannin structure in many Canadian editions it is also a prime candidate for ageing in bottle. I have often been amazed by the grace, suppleness and depth of mature Canadian cabernet franc, when you go with the best. About ten years of bottle age seems to be the peak for premium examples. Meantime, it will also deliver well with some aeration if you want to open it sooner.  I expect that most of the wines reviewed in this post, will age well for the next ten years.

There is lots to choose from in the selection that follows.