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Tasting Note: I have tasted three times this year and have been increasingly more gob-smacked (an old Robert Parker term) each time. From a 92-point score in February to 95 as of September 24th, 2026. Like many Niagara 2023s this has a certain core, depth and intensity that is quite bold yet even. It is very well structured, and cohesive and not just about alcohol and ripeness. The nose is open and generous with quite ripe, almost cab sauvignon like blackberry/mulberry fruit, tobacco, mulchy earthiness and considerable oak resin, marzipan and chocolate. Stratus has always leaned heavily into oak (when not aged in in amphora). So, this fleetingly reminded me of Spanish Rioja. It is -full bodied, fairly dense but not heavy, with 14.1% alcohol and quite fine tannin. The mid-palate is almost luxurious. The length is excellent to outstanding. Fine to enjoy over the next two years with aeration but it should live well into the mid 2030’s.
Backgrounder: Stratus has been a leading producer of premium Bordeaux-style reds in Niagara since 2005, first under Bordeaux-trained winemaker J.L. Groux, who has recently handed off to protégé Dean Stoyka. Cabernet Franc is a major component of the reds at Stratus (18 acres planted), with seven iterations in their portfolio including rose and icewine. This is the standard-bearer, from a vintage that is shaping up to be one of the best in Niagara in recent times. From the excellent 2023 vintage this was hand-harvested, fermented partially whole-cluster in large wood vats, then aged about 19 month in French oak (only 8% new) with the remainder in second fill and neutral barrels.


